BIAB / Builder Gel nails are meant to be long-lasting and beautiful, but if they start lifting after just a few days, it can be frustrating for both nail technicians and clients. If you've ever had a client come back complaining about lifting, don’t worry- you’re not alone. Let’s talk about why BIAB nails lift and what you can do to prevent it.
What Causes BIAB / Builder Gel Nails to Lift?
Lifting happens when the gel separates from the natural nail, creating gaps where water, dirt, and bacteria can sneak in. Here are some of the most common reasons:
Poor Nail Prep – Any oils, dust, or moisture on the nail can prevent gel from bonding properly. Skipping or Incorrect Use of acid free Primer/Dehydrator – If the nail plate isn’t dehydrated properly or the primer applied too thick, the gel may not adhere well.
Touching the Nail Before Application – Even the tiniest bit of oil from your or clients fingers can cause lifting.
Thick or Uneven Application – Applying gel too thickly or not creating Apex in the right place can lead to liftings.
Incorrect Curing – Not curing for the right amount of time can cause gel to lift.
Over-Filing the Nail Plate – Excessively roughing up the nail can damage it, making it harder for the gel to stay in place.
Wearing gel for too long can lead to liftings and splits. The recommended maximum wear time is 4 weeks, but for certain nail types- such as upward-growing nails, trapezoid nails, or extremely weak nails- it’s best to limit wear to 3 weeks.
How to Prevent Gel Nails from Lifting
Now that we know why lifting happens, here’s how to stop it:
✅ Perfect Your Prep Routine – Always remove cuticle from the nail plate, lightly buff the surface, and cleanse thoroughly with a nail dehydrator.
✅ Dehydrator – If your client has naturally oily nails and moist skin, I recommend applying the dehydrator twice. Use a lint-free wipe, pour or spray the dehydrator onto it, and give the nail a good rub. If you use a dehydrator with a built-in brush, every time you apply it to the natural nail, you collect some natural oils and transfer them back into the bottle. Over time, this can contaminate the dehydrator with oils, reducing its effectiveness. That’s why I recommend pouring or spraying the dehydrator onto a cotton wipe instead. This way, your dehydrator stays clean and works properly.
✅ Acid free primer – I always recommend using a primer for every client. It should be applied only to the natural nail. It’s very important to apply the primer correctly because if it’s applied too thick, gets on the skin, or overlaps, it can cause lifting instead of improving adhesion.
✅ Apply a base coat – always apply a clear base coat before BIAB or builder gel. The base coat creates a barrier and improves the bond between the natural nail and the builder gel.
However, it's important to use the right base coat, as not all base coats provide proper adhesion.
✅ BIAB / Builder gel application – It’s very important how the builder gel is applied. We should avoid applying it in just one or two thin flat layers. Instead, we need to create proper nail architecture, ensuring that the apex is placed in the stress zone to protect it from breaking and splitting. The cuticle area, sides, and nail tip should have the least amount of gel to avoid a bulky look, liftings and maintain an elegant appearance.
✅ The right flexibility of your BIAB / builder gel is key – if it's too flexible or too hard for the natural nail, there's a higher chance of lifting or chipping. That's why there's no one-size-fits-all product. We need to assess each client's natural nail flexibility and choose the right product combination to get the best results.
✅ Check Your Curing and Lamp – Make sure your lamp is working properly and that your hand placement is correct for an even cure. A proper lamp should be 48W, have a mirrored bottom to reflect the light for proper curing, and include a low heat mode to prevent your clients from experiencing heat spikes
✅ Avoid Contact with Skin – If gel touches the skin, it can cause lifting around the edges, so always keep the product on the nail only.
Still Struggling with Lifting? Welcome to my training course
If you're a nail tech dealing with lifting issues, don't worry – with practice and the right techniques, you'll master gel application in no time. In my advanced nail technician course in person, I focus on teaching simple, step-by-step methods to create long-lasting, professional BIAB / Builder gel nails that clients love.
By following these tips, you’ll definitely see a big improvement in your gel nail retention. Have you ever struggled with lifting? Let me know in the comments – I’d love to hear about your experiences😊
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